A Study in Hand Stitches (including button sewing!)
I’ve just decided to digitize and upload all my cool sewing lessons I have saved from high school. Enjoy!
(via ruf1ohn1tram)
So I was making a Lil’ Cal head for my doll, and used model magic over foil to make the top layer. Of course, as with all my other model magic over foil projects (horns, mostly), it cracked. But since it was bigger than anything I’d done before the cracks were really deep and I wouldn’t have been able to fix them with mod podge. So I did a little research, and found a Stuck on Homestuck Cosplay tutorial on fixing the cracks! Now, their recipe called for a little bit of model magic, some water, and a LOT of glue, which seemed a bit odd to me, considering I wanted to fill the cracks with more clay (not glue). So after tinkering about, I came up with a pretty perfect recipe! This makes a lot of filler, so you might want to halve it.
MODEL MAGIC CRACK FILLER
1/2 cup very hot water
1 ball model magic, about the size your fingers make if you connect your forefinger and thumb
1/4 cup mod podge
Optional: A couple drops of food coloring, if you want, though I didn’t use any. The foam will be the same color as your clay, but you can probably make a really wide spectrum of colors using food coloring and different clay colors!
Start with the hot water in a disposable container, and slowly add little pieces of model magic, stirring consistently until they’re dissolved. Once you’ve got about 3/4 of the clay in, add the mod podge and stir like mad, gradually adding the last of the clay. Keep stirring for about 5 minutes, or until the model magic is as dissolved as possible. At this stage, if you let it sit, a light but thick foam will start to form at the top of your container. This is what you’re going to use! It’ll be the perfect consistency if you let it cool a bit, but you can start applying the foam as soon as it starts to form. Using your fingers, press the foam into the cracks of your clay until they’re full, then add another layer on top to seal it! It’ll be a bit goopy looking, so you’ll have to sand it when it’s done, but voila! When you’ve used all the foam, just throw away the watery stuff left at the bottom of your container. Tadaa! The perfect way to fix cracks in model magic :) And obviously, feel free to experiment with the recipe and with applications!
I’ve used this on mostly model magic since it practically cracks every time I make something with it. It also works on papermache to smooth it down. So if you need to fix your model magic horns, papermache, or what ever else. This is a pretty good plan here.
Take a little latex caulk easily found around the house or in a hardware store, and apply it to the cracks or damaged areas generously. Smooth down with water. I just use my hand for all of it.
This is before the crack aweyy. This is just pure model magic here folks. Hold your orgams.
Still pretty wet, but this is the general look before its completely dry. Which takes about 2 hrs. Maybe less if you put it in front of a fan. Seal with modge podge after you paint it if you have it. Enjoi.
As for straightening and curling:
To straighten-
If you only need to straighten a small spot, just go ahead and use a hair straightener, but on the lowest setting. Kanekalon fibers, what cosplay/lolita wigs are usually made of, are pretty heat resistant, just make sure to be careful. To straighten the entire wig, pin the wig on a wig head, and then secure the wig head on a stand. Boil some water and pour it over the wig. Make sure to do this in the bathtub to avoid mess. Do it a couple times until it’s as straight as you want it.To curl-
Same for curling, as long as it’s on the lowest setting, you can use a hair curler. Another way is to boil the wig, but if your wig is really long, I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s a really risky way to curl your wig, but you just gotta be careful. I’d rather curl it with an iron rather than boiling it just in case.I hope this helped you guys! Request more tutorials in my ask box! ^.^
(via kittenteef)
You heard right: INVISIBLE SHOES!
A great tutorial on making invisible shoes for all those characters who run around barefoot.
(via vakarrus)
Circle Skirt Tutorial by Kapalaka
Circle skirts are one of the handiest things you can learn to make for cosplay. As far as simple-to-make skirts go, there are two types: circle skirts and rectangle skirts. A rectangle skirts is where you cut out a large rectangle, and gather or pleat all of the excess material until it will fit your waist, giving you a nice full skirt (we explained it in a bit more detail on this over here).
Circle skirts, on the other hand, give you a lot of nice fullness, but with minimal bulk at the waist. For example, my Babs Bunny skirt:
It might not seem like it, but there are a ton of different things you can do with circle skirts. Long circle skirts (as outlined in the tutorial) are perfect for ball gowns. If you need less fullness, you can make a half circle skirt or a 3/4 circle skirt (just use a half circle or 3/4 of a circle, instead of the full circle). If you need more fullness, make several circle skirts (make sure you adjust the waist measurement accordingly, i.e. for 2 circle skirts, use half your waist measurement on both of them), and sew them all together. Here’s an example of that technique (with gathers and horse hair braid in the hem. Tutorial for how she made it here)
You can add pleats or scallops in the hem, layer a whole bunch on top of each other, or whatever else you want to do:
I’ve even known some people to make capes and cloaks and the like using a circle skirt as the basis of their pattern. So go forth! Go forth and use circles!
FREAKIN JUST WHAT I NEEDED
O HMY GOD IVE NEEDED THIS FOR LIKE EVER
THANK YOU SO MUCH
(via vr8sk8s)
Late is better than never, right?
(I must thank my friend Holly of Elite Cosplay for turning me onto Worbla, and Kamui’s great tutorials! On Kamui’s site there’s more in-depth videos on how to work with Worbla and Wonderflex)
(via meulinhailsatanlejion)
Okay kiddos, enough of you asked, so here’s a tutorial. This is primarily for getting an engraved look on your props/accessories/etc, though I’m throwing in basic foam craft technique tips as well.
Let’s use this bracer as an example:
(via ruf1ohn1tram)